BACKGROUND
It's been too long for me to recall where the statistic came from, I believe it was the Data Watch Institute (they are now history), or perhaps an insurance survey, but it's the only one I've seen that had any credence to it on the subject. In the statistics it was cited that 45% of
all hardware, software, and network problems could be sourced back to unclean AC power being fed into computers.
From the
IEEE (Institute for Electrical and Electronic Engineers) studies, they found that on average, the typical AC outlet in North America was hit by a power surge over 600 volts around 13 times a day. And with every surge, there is a sag (hits you like a wave–up and down). They also found that the typical AC outlet is hit by a surge over 3,000 volts around 12 times a month. Anything over around 300 can induce hardware damage. Perhaps not on the first hit, but eventually the sheer number of hits will bring you down.
This is why I consider a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) connected to EVERY computer, hard drive, and network device to be a
vital and first step to data security, integrity, and reliability. Running your equipment off a viable UPS system can cut your tech support by almost half. Think of it. That means by investing $150 every 2-3 years (the cost of a medium-grade 1000 va UPS, and the typical life span of the battery), you can save thousands in tech support costs, and possibly tens of thousands in hardware and data recovery.
STEPS TO TAKE BEFORE PLUGGING IN MY SYSTEM
Before connecting any electronic device to an AC outlet, make sure to test it to verify it is wired correctly. You can purchase a 2” square circuit tester plug at any hardware store for around $10. Just plug the circuit tester into the outlet and the lights will tell if it is wired correctly or not. If not,
do not plug anything else into it until it is rewired. Here in NM I find that 10% of outlets are wired incorrectly. In Old Town, it’s around 25%.
WHAT SHOULD I CONNECT TO A UPSEach UPS will have two types of outputs: Battery and surge protection, and surge protection only. The devices that
must remain running in the event of a power outage should be connected to the battery and surge protection ports. Non-essential peripherals can be connected to the surge protection only ports. It is also important not to connect laser printers to the battery ports, as they tend to discharge very high voltage, which will damage most UPS systems.
This leaves us with the following connected to your battery and surge protected ports:
- Computer
- External drives
- Monitor
- USB and FireWire hubs
- Network equipment (modem, router, switch, hub)
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A UPS
- Volt/Amp ratings. Every electrical and electronic device will have a power rating listed on it. These are typically given in watts. Add up all the watts used by all the equipment you are planning on running off the battery. Then for a safe bet, quadruple that value to give you the Volt/Amp (va) or watt rating of the UPS to purchase (though watts are not exactly the same as volt/amp ratings, they are close enough to avoid having to do power conversions). If your needed watts are too high, get 2 UPS systems for your computer and peripherals.
- If you can afford it, get a UPS that outputs pure sine wave. This is the electrical wave form that electronics are designed to eat. But they may double the cost of your UPS. If the budget isn't there, a UPS that outputs a modified square wave will do. Do not get a UPS that outputs a square wave. These tend to overhead electronic components, leading to an early death.
WHEN SHOULD I CHANGE THE UPS BATTERY
The battery in a UPS will last from 2-3 years, so plan on either replacing the battery or the entire UPS in that time frame. Given that a UPS is the front line of defense to protect valuable resources, I always opt for getting a new UPS instead of saving $50 by getting the replacement battery alone.
WHICH UPS BRAND SHOULD I BUY
I like
APC and
TrippLite.
Tags: UPS, Uninterruptible Power Supply
